Rajasthan
Jaisalmer
The Golden City, on the edge of the Thar Desert
Photo: Sougata Bhar (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Overview
About Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer’s fort is one of the few "living forts" left in the world — roughly a quarter of the old city’s population still lives within its golden sandstone walls, alongside shops, havelis and guesthouses. Beyond the city, the Thar Desert opens out toward the Sam and Khuri sand dunes, where camel safaris and overnight desert camps are the main draw.
Two to three days lets you cover the fort and its haveli-lined lanes, plus an overnight (or at minimum, a sunset) trip out to the dunes.
- Jaisalmer Fort (Sonar Quila), still inhabited, glowing gold at sunset
- Patwon Ki Haveli, the most elaborately carved of the city’s merchant mansions
- A camel or jeep safari into the Sam Sand Dunes at sunset
- A night under genuinely dark desert skies at a camp beyond the day-tripper crowds
- Gadisar Lake, ringed by small shrines and ghats
Top attractions
What to see in Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer Fort
A UNESCO-listed sandstone fort still home to roughly a quarter of the old city’s residents.
Patwon Ki Haveli
A cluster of five havelis built by a family of wealthy jewel and brocade traders, famous for their carved facades.
Sam Sand Dunes
Jaisalmer’s most-visited dune field, roughly 40km from the city, popular for sunset camel rides.
Khuri Sand Dunes
A quieter, less-visited dune field further from the city, better for travelers who want fewer crowds.
Things to do
Experiences in Jaisalmer
Sunset camel safari
The classic Jaisalmer experience, best at Sam or the quieter Khuri dunes.
Overnight desert camp
Beyond the immediate dune-crowds, with a Rajasthani folk-music evening and dinner under the stars.
Fort haveli walk
A guided walk through the fort’s lanes and its best-preserved merchant havelis.
When to go
Best time to visit
October to February. Desert nights get genuinely cold in December-January, so pack warm layers even though days stay warm.
Getting around
Transportation
Jaisalmer has seasonal flight connectivity to Delhi and Jaipur; it is roughly a 5.5-6 hour drive from Jodhpur, the nearest major rail hub.
Where to eat
Restaurants in Jaisalmer
Multi-cuisine
1st Gate Home Fusion Cafe
A rooftop cafe with fort views, popular for breakfast and evening drinks.
Rajasthani & Mughlai
Saffron
A reliable rooftop choice for a proper thali or slow-cooked laal maas.
Eating
Food guide
Ker sangri and gatte ki sabzi are at their best here — desert-adapted dishes that make full use of dried beans, berries and gram flour.
Practical
Travel tips
Book your desert camp in advance during peak season (Dec-Jan), and confirm whether jeep or camel transport is included — some budget operators charge extra for the safari itself.
Questions
Jaisalmer: common questions
Yes — unlike most Indian forts, which are preserved as monuments, roughly a quarter of Jaisalmer’s old-city population still lives, works and trades within the fort walls.
Sam is more popular and easier to reach, with more camp options; Khuri is quieter and better if you want fewer other visitors around at sunset.
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Planning a trip to Jaisalmer?
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